Back in the day, all we knew about skincare products was cleansers, toners and moisturisers.
Then we learnt that we could have different types. You either had oily, dry or combination skin.
Then we had skincare brands that could tweak those basic products, for different skin types.
And that was pretty much it.
However people have become more and more curious about what those products contain.
Now consumers are taking out those magnifying glasses to read those tiny words in the list of ingredients.
In the same way that people want to know exactly what they are eating and what those products are doing to their bodies, they want to know about what they are putting on their skin.
When people see a certain ingredient on those lists they don’t hesitate to simply search for it on the internet.
This has allowed skincare brands the opportunity to educate their customers about the ingredients that make their products work.
Those ingredients that often sound like scientific gibberish have now become buzz words. Words we all look out for in products.
Skincare has become a science and we’re all sitting front row in the science class!
“Shopping for skincare is no longer based on brand names, but rather what ingredients are most beneficial to the skin. There has been a fair share of hype around active ingredients such as retinol, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide, but there are some newer, cutting-edge ingredients that are increasing in popularity,” explains Dr Alek Nikolic, renowned specialist in Aesthetic Medicine and Executive Director of high-end online skincare store, SkinMiles.
As the skincare scientists continue to search for the magic ingredients that will give our skin that much desired youthful glow and make those pesky fine lines disappear, we keep an eye out for the next special ingredient.
Here Dr Nikolic gives us insight into four active ingredients that skincare fans should be on the lookout for.
Granactive retinol
This is also known as hydroxypinacolone retinoate. It is a less sensitising and non-irritating form of retinol that has the same benefits as prescription-strength tretinoin.
Benefits: Tackles fine lines, wrinkles, blemishes and hyperpigmentation, and helps renew skin plumpness, elasticity and hydration. This active ingredient is formulated for preventing ageing skin concerns and to counteract the signs of UV skin damage and intrinsic skin ageing. It also minimises pores and sebum production and works as an anti-oxidant.
Lipid soluble vitamin C
This is also known as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate. It is less sensitising and reactive than ascorbic acid, but can be absorbed better through the skin barrier, meaning it stays 40 times longer in the skin than ascorbic acid.
Benefits: Can be used as an antioxidant to improve skin elasticity, boost collagen, treat hyperpigmentation and provide skin-brightening benefits. It also helps to repair and prevent skin ageing concerns such as fine lines, textured skin and a dull complexion.
Silymarin
This ingredient is a derivative of the milk thistle plant. Not only does it promote healthy skin, but research shows that silymarin has numerous skincare benefits, especially for problematic, ageing and oily skin types.
Benefits: Helps to improve inflammatory skin conditions, anti-aging effects and sebum overproduction that can lead to breakouts. This active ingredient reduces oiliness, refines skin texture and visibly improves skin clarity and fine lines.
Tranexamic acid
This active ingredient provides a powerful and specific anti-inflammatory action, and inhibits the enzyme responsible for pigment formation. It also blocks tyrosinase synthesis in melanocytes, while blocking the transfer of pigment from pigment producing cells known as melanocytes to the skin cells In the epidermis. Tranexamic acid also calms the skin and helps restore the skin barrier.
Benefits: Helps to fade discolouration, brightens skin and reduces the appearance of acne scars.
With the increase of skincare products being predominantly sold online it is recommended that people wanting to try out new product with active ingredients do their research first, as everyone’s skin is different – what may work for one person, may not for another.
Fortunately there are also online consultation, like SkinMiles, that have options available, including live chats and assessments which provide helpful advice and information. They offers bespoke advice through their Face2Face Assessment.