Durban - “Watch your step… Careful now.” Willing boatmen grabbed our arms and gently guided us from our transfer vessel, the MSC Flamingo, on to terra firma on the pristine Portuguese Island in Mozambique.
The last thing you want to do is twist an ankle or a knee when on a cruise.
A quick glance around confirmed that this place would way exceed expectations… a spotless, protected reserve on which Mediterranean Shipping Company (MSC) has built some basic infrastructure, hand-in-hand with local expertise.
Straight ahead, a wooden bar cum informal restaurant area, with plenty of shade, on our right the sparkling sea and in the distance a reserved beach lounge area and various activities like snorkelling, kayaking and guided walks. Friendly locals approached to sell crafts, keepsakes, cold drinks and beer. The stresses of Durban seemed a million miles away.
We’d left Durban harbour the previous afternoon on the MSC Opera and steamed at speed, estimated at about 19 knots (35km/h), up the east coast towards Mozambique. No messing about here.
Friday afternoon it was a party by the pool, followed by dinner at 6.15pm (first sitting) and then the 1 900 guests on board continued the fun in the various lounges, bars, coffee shops, on the deck or in the disco until the early hours. Of course, there was always the option to take it easy, find a quiet nook, read a book or just take in the bracing sea air.
All purchases on board are made using a cruise card, on which guests load revenue, either in cash or by credit card. It’s a simple, user-friendly system… just don’t lose your card!
Our night ended before midnight, after a spell in the bar and coffee shop, and once we’d gathered instructions about the excursion the next morning. An excursions desk helps guests select and arrange activities for the next day. Things like snorkelling and kayaking are optional and come at a cost. There’s also an option to visit Inhaca Island.
We were happy to settle for a day on the beach and, with the weather gods on our side, woke up to a calm sea and clearing skies.
After an immense breakfast (you can choose whether you want buffet or a la carte in one of the restaurants), we enjoyed coffee on the deck as we waited for our transport to the island. There’s no doubt that, along with many families, the Opera draws a significant party crowd, and some were clearly extending the previous night’s jollifications.
When our ticket was called we were bundled on to the Flamingo, which I’d say holds about 80 people. We bobbed around for a minute or so as staff made sure everyone was secure before four powerful outboard engines kicked into gear and we charged for the island.
This was undoubtedly the highlight of the three-day cruise. The pool deck was fun, R&R time in the pubs and lounges enjoyable and the endless supply of food (pizzas were sensational if you can handle the queues) a pleasure, but the visit to the island and activities made for a special day. A couple of beers in the shade overlooking the ocean, partnered with cooling dips in the sea, certainly made one hanker after island life.
MSC has partnered with the Maputo municipality and university to ensure minimal impact to the environment, a win-win situation, whereby the company can develop Portuguese Island into a sustainable feature of their offerings, and provide employment for locals and investment in infrastructure and equipment. There are no stayovers and every item used on the day (food, beverages, cooking instruments, plates, plastic etc) must be brought there by speedboat and removed that same day. It is an impressive logistical exercise, relying heavily on local skippers and boatmen.
Day one of a three-day cruise to Portuguese Island is all about orientation, finding your way around the many decks, discovering the spa, library, gym and saunas, quiet rooms, piano lounge, casino, computer and internet facilities, and more, while having a party along the way. With a theatre, live music in most lounge areas, the casino and many relaxation areas, there really is something for everyone. Parents can also relax as there are extensive childcare and activity options.
Day two is all about the adventure to the island and doing something you might never get a chance to do again. Day three is a resumption of the festivities or chill time before the Opera gets under way again for an overnight journey back to Durban.
We woke to a blast from the horn and the familiar sight of the port of Durban, more than an hour ahead of schedule. Plenty of time, then, for a steaming mug of coffee and one last breakfast before disembarkation and a ride home.
If You Go...
l Up to two children under 18 cruise free when travelling in the same cabin as their parents.
l Other destinations include Mauritius, Madagascar, Reunion and Maputo.
l The MSC Opera is based in Durban this season. She will be replaced by Sinfonia next year.
l The present season is five months, with 46 cruises.
l The Opera, Sinfonia and another two MSC Lirica Class vessels will be “stretched” before the next season and an extra 22m added, with extra cabin space, lounge area and a “spray park”, with slides, tipping bucket, snake fountain, water bazooka etc.
l The current capacity is 2 100 guests, while the “stretched” vessels will be able to host more than 2 500.
l The Opera currently has 700 staff.
l MSC has been operating in the Indian Ocean and along the Mozambique coast for more than 25 years.
l For prices and further specials see website, msccruises.co.za
The Mercury